the smaller the number the stronger the needle if your working on a hard type head you would use a 36 or 38 a soft head 40,41, 42, 43 etc the amount of hair that the needle uses is gaged by the barbs for instance if you have a 38g needle with 6 barbs you will put in 5 to 6 hairs per punch ( good for eyelashes) if you have a 38g 1 barb needle you will put 1 to 2 hairs in at a time the numbers represent the strength of the needle the barbs represent the hair, this doesnt apply to german needles i dont use them so cant answer on that one but i belive Naomi can, hope this helps (((hugs)))
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